The life of a mini is sometimes difficult, and some are more fragile than others. When a piece breaks, it is often enough to glue it back together. But, sometimes, there is not enough surface for the glue to hold, or it’s obvious that the piece will break again. It is then more convenient to pin the mini by adding a metal reinforcement.

If you notice a weak spot when assembling the mini, do not hesitate to pin immediatly, rather than wait for it to break. It is often easier to pin in the first stage of assembly than after a break.

These two Arkanaut Kharadron Overlords, victims of my clumsiness, will serve as examples.

The tools needed to tiger:

• Superglue
• Hand drill and drill (here 0.8mm)
• Piano wire (fine wire, here 0.6mm found in any hardware store. For larger parts, paper clips or larger rods can be used)
• Fine sandpaper
• Box Cutter
• Clipper

The first step is to even out the parts’ surfaces with sandpaper.

If necessary, you can make a cross on the part with a box cutter to guide the drill bit.

Drill each parts. Gauge the depth depending on the parts. For these stratopikes I drilled about 5mm deep.

Glue the piano wire in the larger part and clip the leftover wire. Don’t forget to leave enough length to pin the part. You still have time to clip more, or drill the other part deeper as you wish.

Don’t put too much glue, the space between the wire and the mini is very thin and will fill up quickly.

Here are the two Arkanaut Kharadron Overlords with glued pins. All that remains is to glue the skypikes’ heads.

Be careful again not to put too much glue. Remember to work above a surface you’ll feel free to drop superglue on.

Put the piece in place, hold it a few seconds and let it dry.

There you go. The model is now stronger than before (that’s no reason to mistreat it either).

Post How to pin a mini was first on No Paint No Gain.

If you’re an old geezer like me, you may remember Citadel’s Chestnut Ink. This ink, now discontinued, had a nice red tinge that gave a very good copper effect on golden paint.

I read on the internet, too long ago to remember where unfortunately, that liquitex Burnt Sienna ink is a good replacement. Intrigued, I bought a bottle, here is a test of different inks from Games Workshop’s Citadel line, Privateer Press‘s own P3 and the Liquitex Burnt Sienna.

After this try out, I find that the Liquitex Burnt Sienna is actually close to Chestnut Ink. Reikland Flesh is also very close and a nice shade of color. On the other hand, I was disapointed by P3 Brown Ink, by far, the least pleasant to use. Here’s a Liquitex test on an Arkanaut Kharadron Overlord model:

The color test:

Post Six shades of Chestnut Ink was first on No Paint No Gain.

I can’t wait to see how Warhammer The Old World works to unleash them on the tabletop once more. In the meantime, maybe I’ll fall for the Ossiarch Bonereaper …

Post Tomb Kings Memories was first on No Paint No Gain.

Let’s be honest, if I fell in love with the Kharadron Overlords it was above all a question of aesthetics. I never thought I’d see Games Workshop mix Duardins, ships, and Steam punk in such an inventive way. This army has a unique look.

This is an army with a model going into battle with a mini-balloon backpack and battle armor that includes a top hat-shaped helmet. Who can resist Brokk Grungsson? We can only yield in front of an army including miniatures like the Endrinriggers, the Arkanaut Frigate or the Arkanaut Ironclad!

Speed, give me what I need

In my old days I played

• Space Marine, with Assault Squad with Jetpack
• Eldar Craftworlds with Black Guardian Windriders, Swooping Hawks, Vyper and Falcon
• Tomb Kings with War Chariots, a lot.
•  Cryx (Warmachine) with Bonejacks, lots of Bonejacks

You could say that I have always placed a high value on mobility. So if you like mobility, the Kharadrons Overlord might be for you too. Embark your Arkanaut Company in your Aetherships. Escort your troops with Grundstock Gunhauler and Endrinriggers and take the battlefield. Use this speed to take objectives and avoid the more melee oriented troops (shoot them instead).

The Kharadron Code

If you aren’t keen on their looks, or their gameplay, maybe you will be interested in their lore. In the ethers float the Duardins Skyports, ruled by guilds and code. Arkanaut companies are pirates… no… “traders“. If you are tired of playing armies of very nice or very bad guys, sign up with the industrious Kharadrons Overlords. Prosper or Die!

Post Why play Kharadrons Overlord was first on No Paint No Gain.

Hello, I am a former fantasy wargamer who’s back to the Hobby. I used to play Warhammer Battle (Undead then Tomb Kings) and Privateer Press (a bit of everything in Warmachine and Hordes but mainly Cryx). And then, nothing …

Until I discovered the Kharadron Overlords from Age of Sigmar, and it was love at first sight. As a result I bought enough to get started, assembled the models and … two years passed. I’m diving dive back today after a few months in confinement and I launch this blog to motivate myself.

So, a blog about the Hobby?

That’s it. Here I will tell you about my Hobby adventures. First with my Kharadron Overlords, and then, who knows. Stormcast, Lumineth, Orruk, something else entirely ? All betts are off. I will tell you about my struggles, my solutions, my modelling and painting tips etc. I am not a pro painter, far from it, but if you are a beginner or facing the same issues as I am, maybe you will find something useful here.

Once the painting step is over, I will tell you about my (futile) army list theories. I’ll put them to the test for a few battle reports. I am as good a strategist as I am a painter, so I hope to tell you a lot of things I do so you don’t repeat them

See you next time !

Post Back to the Hobby with the Kharadron Overlords was first on No Paint No Gain.